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Changu Narayan is the
temple of Vishnu, the Preserver, in the village of Changu in Bhaktapur.
The origins of Changu Narayan goes back to the fourth century. A fifth
century stone inscription in the temple proclaims it as one of the
oldest shrines of the Kathmandu Valley. The temple is believed to be
sixteen hundred years old. It is embellished by the best examples of
stone, wood, and metal craft.
On the struts of the
two-tiered Changu Narayan Temple, are the ten incarnations of Narayan. A
sixth-century stone statue shows the cosmic form of Vishnu. Garuda, half
man and half bird, is the steed of Vishnu, and his life-sized statue
kneels before the temple.
The stone inscription (dated 464
A.D.) placed in front of the Changu Narayan temple describes in
detail the story of Dharmadeva a King of Nepal who died suddenly,
with his young son succeeding him to the throne. The son later
after a series of victories in war inscribed his victory on a
stone pillar and placed it in front of the Changu Narayan temple.
It is written in poetry and in an academic Sanskrit which is
something like an encyclopedia of the then society, tradition and
culture. It starts with an invocation to the Vishnu of Doladri
proving that Changu Narayan or the Doladri Narayan is much older
than the date on the in- scription of 464 A.D.
Situated on a
beautiful hill the square two storeyed temple stands in the centre
of a brickpaved courtyard, with the main structure raised on a three
tier diminishing plinth, with doors on all four sides, although the
western door is the main en- trance to the sanctum. The doors have
pairs of carvings of animals such as li- ons, horses, griffins and
elephants, with the main western door richly carved in brass, with a
brass tympanum above the door. (one of the most beautiful pieces of
brass work of medieval Nepal).
The roof is
supported by 24 struts or brackets, which serve as decoration and to
support the temple roof. They are beautifully carved and hung at a
45 de- gree angle. They represent the ten major incarnations of
Vishnu and his various manifestations. Though a Vishnu temple the
struts also depict Manjushree and Buddha. To the south some of the
struts have as many as twenty arms, and carrying various
attributions they represent the whole Hindu philosophy. The Buddhist
community from the Kathmandu Valley also pay tribute to Changu
Narayan as the Haribahana Lokeswar and Kileswar Shiva as
Samantabhadra Lokeswar.
Situated on a
beautiful hill the square two storeyed temple stands in the centre
of a brickpaved courtyard, with the main structure raised on a three
tier diminish- ing plinth, with doors on all four sides, although
the western door is the main en- trance to the sanctum. The doors
have pairs of carvings of animals such as li- ons, horses, griffins
and elephants, with the main western door richly carved in brass,
with a brass tympanum above the door. (one of the most beautiful
pieces of brass work of medieval Nepal).
The courtyard has
many other temples such as that of Kileswar Shiva, Chinnamasta Devi
and other figures like that of Garuda from the 5th century; Vishnu
mounted on Garuda from the 7th/ 8th centuries; Vishnu surrounded by
Laxmi and Garuda from the 10th/11th centuries; and the cosmic
universal form of Vishnu shown to Arjuna in the great battle of
Mahabharata; plus other multiheaded and multiarmed Vishnu.
From the temple one
can see the beautiful Manohara river flowing like a serpent through
green fields, and to the north on a clear day one can see many
Himalayan peaks. A whole day is needed to study and enjoy Changu
Narayan, just 15 kilometers from Kathmandu city
Some important sculptures of Vishnu seen
here are:
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Vishwaroop: The sculpture represents
Vishnu in his most universal form. It dates back to 8th century
A.D.
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Vishnu Vikranta - This stone image,
dating back to the 8th century A.D., is one of the most poerful
form of Vishnu. This is when he measured space with his feet.
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Vishnu riding Garuda (the mythical
bird) - this figure of Vishnu mounting Garuda dates back to the
10th century A.D.
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Nar-Singha Vishnu - this form of
Vishnu is seen in his half man and half lion form.
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