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The expedition will be organized in such
a way to allow members to concentrate largely on their own health and
performance, without the burden of load carrying or dealing with logistics. A
doctor, who is experienced in high altitude medicine, will be resident at base
camp throughout the expedition to monitor your acclimatization and provide for
your health care. |
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Mount Everest is
still the ultimate mountaineering adventure. As the highest mountain in the
world, Everest has immense appeal to mountaineers and fascination for
non-climbers, but it also has tremendous allure because of its position in
Nepal's Khumbu, one of the world's most beautiful mountain regions, and because
of its remarkable climbing history. An ascent of Everest provides immense
personal challenge, a rewarding cultural experience on approach, and a personal
connection with a rich history of exploration.
An attempt on Mt
Everest is also a major undertaking which requires significant climbing
experience, solid alpine skills, good mountain judgment, excellent physical
conditioning, and a huge amount of dedication and determination. If you see
Everest as a definite or possible climbing goal for yourself, we can help you
through all the stages of your preparation, from technical skills development to
training in cold weather survival skills and the gaining of climbing experience
at high altitude.
We climb Everest via the South Col route
from Nepal in the spring season because this route and timing offer the absolute
best chance of success. Routes from the north are technically more difficult,
especially high on the mountain, and in the spring climbing season, we gain the
dual advantages of getting progressively milder weather as we move closer to the
summit and of climbing more stable slopes because the winter winds have scoured
away much of the snow, significantly reducing the avalanche hazard.
This expedition is a joint American
Alpine Institute / Adventure Consultants undertaking. The Institute has the most
extensive and successful high altitude guiding record in the world, and
Adventure Consultants has the highest success rate guiding on Mt. Everest (with
64 climbers reaching the summit). Both companies are committed to meticulous
preparation. From expert Sherpas and support staff, to careful menu planning,
oxygen support, satellite communication, environmental protection, and a
mountain clean-up plan, our expedition is finely tuned to Leave No Trace while
offering you the highest possible chances for success
By the time you arrive at the base camp
at the foot of the Khumbu Icefall, a route will already be established with
ropes and ladders through the icefall to Camp 1, and our strong Sherpa team will
be ferrying loads of equipment up the mountain. On your first acclimatization
foray, you'll spend several days at and above Camp 2. On your second foray,
you'll spend several days and nights at Camp 3, and on your summit attempt, we
will climb through the established camps with lightweight packs to Camp 4 on the
South Col. All climbers will be sleeping on bottled oxygen before setting out
for the summit, carrying only very lightweight Russian oxygen bottles.
To gain a full understanding of your
body's response to altitude and to gain experience with Himalayan conditions, we
recommend you join us for two expeditions prior to Everest (Alaska's Denali and
Tibet's Cho Oyu are our top choices for your preparatory steps to the summit of
Everest). Please see our web site for more details on all these expeditions or
call us to discuss our high altitude program.
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