A circuit of
Dhaulagiri massif is possible for well-equipped and fully self-sufficient
parties. The minimum time that should be allowed for this itinerary is eighteen
days Pokhara to Pokhara but a few extra days to allow for side trips or bad
weather are advisable. The route crosses two high which are in remote country
far from any assistance. Particular care must be taken with regards to proper
acclimatization and staff equipment. Since much of the first half of the trek
travels on rarely trekked trails, the services of an experienced local guide are
highly recommended. No special permits are required for the Dhaulagiri circuit
but for the last part, down the kali Gandaki, an ACAP entry permit is needed.
The trek is best
started at Beni, the district headquarters of Myagdi district. Myagdi is one of
the most easterly of the districts where the Magar people can be found. This
group of hill dwellers are similar in many ways to their Gurung neighbors but
are thought to have settled in Nepal some time earlier. Like their Gurung
cousins, the Magar have a tradition of service in the Gurkha regiments. Regular
bus services operate from Pokhara as far as Baglung and from there, are less
frequent services to Beni.
The Dhaulagiri
trail follows the Myagdi khola, the river that drains the southern side of the
Dhaulagiri massif. Passing through the settlements of Darbang and Muri, the
country is still quite heavily populated with scattered villages and farming
land. Beyond Muri, the Myagdi khola swings north and the landscape becomes much
more rugged and sparsely populated. The tree line is reached just below the sit
of the, so called, Italian base camp, located at the snout of the Chhonbaraan
Glacier, is an ideal place to spend an acclimatization day exploring the hills
around about.
The next two days
are spent on the glacier, the second night being at Dhaulagiri base camp, a
rugged spot with some spectacular views of the western face of Dhaulagiri.
From here the
trial crosses French pass which at 5360 meters is the highest point of the trek.
Descending French pass you enter the lonely but fascinating area known as Hidden
valley. This place is one of the few true wilderness areas accessible to
trekkers in Nepal. The valley stretches away to the north eventually narrowing
to a rugged gorge that connects to Upper Dolpa. There are reports of many
endangered species residing in this area including the elusive snow leopard. If
all the members and the staff of the group are fit then a rest and exploration
day spent in hidden valley is well worth while.
From Hidden
valley the trial now crosses Dhampus pass (sometimes known as Thapa pass). While
not as high as French pass, it is roughly 100 meters lower, Dhampus pass has a
reputation for bad weather which can make the crossing and subsequent descent
something of a problem. Trekkers must be aware of the health of their group
members and staff, especially on the section between French pass and Dhampus
pass. Any person suffering from the symptoms of AMS must never be taken on over
French pass but rather, taken back down the Myagdi khola to a lower altitude.
Having a group member suffer from AMS between the passes poses a serious problem
as the only way to get the patient assistance is to ascend which would make the
problem worse.
Having crossed
Dhampus pass the trial descends into the valley of the kali Gandaki meeting the
main trial at either Marpha or Tukuche. On the way down to the valley there are
some spectacular views across to the Annapurnas and up into the arid steppes of
Mustang.
The rest of the
trek is described in the Annapurna circuit description.
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