Welcome: Everest North Col Expedition (7000 m.) Tibet

George Mallory was in fact the first person ever to set foot on the mountain when he climbed to the nearby Lhakpa La from the eastern side during the first Everest reconnaissance of 1921. It was from the Lhakpa La Mallory first saw the North Col and the upper East Rongbuk glacier. He could see the long sweep of the north ridge leading up from the North Col to the Summit and realized that at last he had discovered a potential way to climb Everest, In a state of great excitement he dashed across the upper East Rongbuk and made the first ascent to the North Col. That night he slept on the North Col. In defiance of contemporary medical opinion as he had been told if he dared to sleep at such altitudes then he would become severely brain damaged. Mallory felt fine the next morning and climbed a short way up the north ridge but was forced to retreat because his companions were too terrified.

In earlier days climbers had to get highly expensive Everest climbing permit from Chinese authorities even if they did not really want to summit Everest. Now we can climb up to North Col (1848 meter below summit) without an Everest permit. This trip offers a classic opportunity to highly ambitious trekker-climber who wants to experience climbing Mt. Everest without spending too much money and time.

Day 01 Drive to Nyalam (3750m)

We leave Kathmandu early in the morning, driving through the beautiful Nepalese countryside to Kodari on the Nepal Tibet border. After completing the border formalities at both the Nepalese and Chinese immigration posts we check in to our hotel in Zhangmu or Nyalam on the Tibetan side of the border.

Day 02 At Nyalam for acclimatization

We spend a day resting in Nyalam today in order to acclimatize before heading up higher. A short way out of town there is a small temple, Nyalam Pelgye Ling, which is associated with eleventh- and twelfth-century poet-lama Milarepa.

Day 03 Drive to Tingri (4390m)

Today we continue along the Friendship Highway, marveling once more at the barren yet spectacular landscape of Tibet. Beyond the small town of Lhatse we cross the highest pass on our journey, the Gyamtso La [5220m]. From here we descend to the plains, passing lonely monasteries and the camps of nomadic herders, en route to Shegar(new Tingri) and our overnight accommodation at Hotel.

Day 04 Drive to Rongbuk (5000m)

Shortly after leaving Tingri, we turn off the Friendship Highway and head south over the Pang La [5150m] towards the main Himalayan range. The view from the top is incredible with uninterrupted views stretching from Makalu to Shishapangma. Below the pass, Everest initially is hidden from view, but as we turn the corner into the Rongbuk Valley it reappears, more impressive than ever.

Day 05 drive to Everest Base Camp (5200m)

We take a short drive to the rough and barren Everest Base Camp. This is a short day, really it is one of many acclimatization days. How often do you get a chance to sit and read at 5000 meters with the sheer north face of the highest mountain in the world towering above us. Although we drive it is possible to trek Rongbuk to Base Camp, which takes about 5 hours slowly. It is tough at this altitude! You will feel better after a day's rest.

Day 06-08 Everest Base Camp (5200m)

We spend three days here in Base camp to acclimatize, this is a good a day to read a book, just how often do you get a chance to sit and read in 5000 meters and with the stunning view of Everest's north face.

Day 09 Trek to Camp 1 (5460m)

The Rongbuk Glacier is an impressive frozen ocean of ice waves; the views of the glacier and the Himalayan peaks are some of the most dramatic in Tibet. Along the east side of the glacier is the trail that expeditions use to begin their climbs of Everest and this is the trail we are taking. Camp 1 [5460m] is set in a barren world of moraine hills under beautifully sculpted yellow-orange granite cliffs. The next camp is too far to reach in a single day, so to help us acclimatize, we spend the remainder of the afternoon exploring the gravely snout of the east Rongbuk Glacier.

Day 10 Trek to Interim camp (5760m)

The trail to the Interim Camp climbs and descents over the gravel hills, always staying above the west edge of the ice. Interim camp [5760m] is a good place to spend a night acclimatizing before advancing to Camp 2. Nearby, the first ice seracs [ice pinnacles] rise like white sails from the dark debris-laden surface of the glacier we will go and take a good look at these. The last section to Interim can be quite slippery.

Day 11 Rest day in Interim camp

We spend a day here in the intermediate camp, resting to further acclimatize. We will of course explore the surroundings on small excursions. However this is another good chance to finish that book.

Day 12 Trek to Camp 2 (5970m)

About two hours above the Interim camp the central moraine ridge narrows with the pressure at the confluence with the Changtse glacier. Camp 2 [5970m] is only ten minutes from here, glaciers large and small spills into the valley from every direction and the appropriately named Serac Highway continues to extend its unusual gravel arm trough the centre of the of the ice formations.

Day 13 Trek to Camp 3 (6340m)

Although this is a short walk today the altitude makes it tough. We continue following the narrow tongue or moraine and finally round a curve to see Everest, and soon after, Camp 3 or as it is now called, Everest ABC - Advanced Base Camp. This is as far as yaks and porters can go.

Day 14-15 Acclimatization at ABC

Camp 3, the advanced base camp for the North Col route up Mount Everest, is on flattened gravel mounds beside the glacier. The pinnacles, the frightening group of rock palisades that kept the Northeast Ridge unclimbed for so long, are just another 1½ km further up from camp 3. Most amazing of all is the ridge extending above the Pinnacles to the southwest: the striated rock summit of Everest. The top of this mountain appears phenomenally close; it is little more than 2400 meters higher than camp 3. This is the closest non-climbers can get the top of Everest. With a pair of binoculars, you are almost there…

Day 16 North Col (7000m) and descent

Today we get 7000m high! Take plenty of warm clothing because although the route is sheltered from the usual wind, it loses sun in the afternoon quickly. Initially we trek through ABC on the moraine, increasingly the rock is mixed with ice and soon we have to put on our crampons as we head onto the classier proper. After an initial gentle section we put on harnesses and use the fixed ropes for the real climb up to North Col. There is the occasional steeper section as we wind our way through crevasses and seracs. From the Col, littered with tents during the climbing season, we have a great view of the route and the whole of the north face.

Day 17 Spare day for Bad weather

If we did reach the North Col yesterday we will trek part of the way back down, perhaps to Interim camp.

Day 18 Return to Base Camp

We try to start early for the long trek back. Sometimes it is possible to make it in one day, sometimes not, please discuss carefully with the crew.

Day 19 Drive Base Camp to Nyalam

Today we rejoin the Friendship Highway and drive to Tingri, leaving Tingri, we cross another two high passes, the Lalung La [5124m] and the Shung La [5200m]. Once more we are rewarded with magnificent views of the surrounding peaks of Shishapangma, Cho Oyu, Menlungtse and Gauri Shankar. Now we begin our descent from the arid Tibetan Plateau to Nyalam just 30 km before the Nepalese border. After Tibet, it appears an incredibly lush and green town.

Day 20 Drive Nyalam to Kathmandu

From Nyalam we drive the last 30 kilometres to the Friendship Bridge, which spans the Bhote Koshi River and marks the China - Nepal border. We say goodbye to our Tibetan guide and driver and walk to Nepalese Immigration Control in Kodari where our Nepalese staff will meet us. After completing the re-entry formalities we continue the drive to Kathmandu, which, depending on road and weather conditions, should take about 5 hours.