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Welcome:
Lakpa Ri Expeditions Tibet
The most
climable 7,000m peak in the world
Lhakpa Ri is an ideal objective, remarkably positioned just across the glacier
from Everest. It shares the historic route up the East Rongbuk Glacier and is
climbable by a relatively safe and straightforward route. It is just over the
milestone altitude of 7,000m, making it higher than anything outside Asia and is
probably the most climbable 7,000m peak in the world.
The mountain is one of several peaks that line the east flank of the East
Rongbuk Glacier. The summit is a prominent three-sided pyramid which drops to
the East Rongbuk Glacier to the west, the Kharta Glacier to the east and falls
steeply to a tributary glacier of the Kangshung to the south. The slopes from
the Rongbuk an Kharta Glaciers are relatively low angled and are linked by the
Lhakpa La pass (6,849m), which is just to the north of Lhakpa Ri. It was from
this pass, in 1922, that Mallory and his team mates first saw the East Rongbuk
Glacier, an event well documented in mountaineering annals.
Lhakpa Ri is a superb objective which should appeal to climbers looking for a
7,000m summit in a famous location. The visit to Lhasa, the overland journey
across the Tibetan Plateau, the trek in the footsteps of Mallory and a climb
with awesome views of Everest, are the ingredients of a very special expedition.
It will also give a life-long impression of Tibet and its people and an insight
and deep respect for the achievements of the early Everest pioneers.
The Expedition
Climbing Lhakpa Ri involves a similar itinerary to the initial phase of an
expedition to the North Ridge of Everest. From Kathmandu, we fly to Lhasa and
spend several days in what was the "Forbidden City". Then there is an incredible
journey through Tibet, along the Friendship Highway before turning south to the
Rongbuk Valley below Everest. We spend time acclimatising at base camp before
making the two-day hike to advance base camp (ABC), at about 6,300m.
The ascent follows a shallow, snow-filled depression on the southwest flank,
ascending low-angled snow for 600m, which steepens at mid-height to around
30-35°. After gaining the crest of the ridge close to the Lhakpa La, we turn
south and follow the snow ridge to the summit.
After returning to base camp, we complete the remainder of the Friendship
Highway, driving along the northern side of the Himalaya range, again with views
of Everest, Cho Oyu and numerous other peaks. The road eventually descends to
the Friendship Bridge, where we cross into Nepal and continue to Kathmandu.
Glimpse of itinerary:
Day 1: Arrival in Kathmandu.
Day 2: At leisure in Kathmandu.
Day 3: Fly to Lhasa.
Day 4-5: At leisure in Lhasa.
Day 6: Drive to Shigatse (6 hours).
Day 7: Drive to Xegar (8 hours).
Day 8: Acclimatization Day.
Day 9: Drive to Everest Base Camp (5,200m)
Day 10-13: Acclimatisation and local exploration.
Day 14: Trek to Interim Camp (5,800m).
Day 15: Trek to Advance Base Camp (6,400m).
Day 16-19: At leisure at Advance Base Camp.
Day 20: Climb Lhakpa Ri (7,045m).
Day 21: Spare day.
Day 22: Return to Base Camp.
Day 23: Drive to Nyalam.
Day 24: Drive to the Nepalese Border and Kathmandu.
Day 25: At leisure in Kathmandu.
Day 26: Fly Kathmandu from your next destination. |
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